Saturday 5 September 2015

Six of the Best: Scotland's Best Beaches

With its hundreds of miles of deeply indented coastline and more than seven hundred islands, Scotland is blessed with some of the most magnificently situated beaches in Europe. The vast expanses of white sand that jewel Scotland's coast are renowned for their isolation and tranquility: often the cool clear waters lapping the soft sandy shore and the occasional cry of a seabird are the only sounds to be heard. It is usual to walk for miles and see only two, maybe three, other souls: they always have a story to tell, though, so save time for a long chat! Also save time to collect the many treasures that are to be found here: every day, exquisite and exotic shells wash up on these remote shores. A Scottish beach is a haven of pure peace at any time of year. It is a truism that the weather can never be guaranteed, but the ever-changing skies and weather conditions provide this coastline with a drama that is unmatched anywhere else. A trip to the wild coasts of northern Scotland and the Hebrides provides a chance to experience at close quarters the unmatched power of nature; a power wielded in wind, cloud and waves. It is a testament to the stark, wild beauty of these coasts, that even on a raw November day, with driving rain and howling gales, the seascapes never fail to inspire. The next few posts will show you some of the beaches I have fallen in love with during my travels.

1) Camas na Ceardaich, Inverie, Lochaber


The beach at Camas na Ceardaich, often simply titled The Long Beach, lines the rugged shores of a deep bay in Loch Nevis, providing a moon-like crescent of glittering white sand. The sea loch's name translates as the Loch of Heaven, which is highly fitting for the sublime tranquility of the scene. The fine, soft shell sand is jewelled with many dazzling shells, including rare razor clams, a rare treasure trove indeed. The setting reminds me of a desert island, Scottish style, with the same gleaming sand, the same deep blue sea, but with pines instead of palms. The beach is part of the mainland, lining an indentation of the southern Knoydart coast, but accessible only by boat from Mallaig or by a marathon hike across the hills from either Glendessary or Kinloch Hourn. Whichever way you choose to come (I will admit to taking the easy route and boarding a ferry at Mallaig!), this brilliant white stretch of sand provides a spectacular end to a spectacular journey. Though the sea views will justifiably capture your heart, do not forget to look inland: the larch glades, which glow gold in autumn, and the brooding bulk of Meall Buidhe, and its neighbour Luinne Bheinn, provide a formidable Highland backdrop; the perfect harmony of mare e monti, sea and mountains, as the Italians so aptly put it. Then when the clouds recede, a sight of almost surreal beauty will be set before your eyes: in the far distance, the spear-like summit of Sgurr na Ciche, a truly magnificent mountain, will thrust itself boldly into the moody autumnal skies. There is no natural drama greater than this. 








These images illustrate the stunning mountain backdrop to Camas na Ceardaich. The skyline is dominated by Luinne Bheinn (far left) and Meall Buidhe (centre), both in their russet autumn coats, while Sgurr na Ciche appears as a spear head, or ghostly arrow, above the pine glades.









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