The Silver Sands, Morar

Number two in our hall of fame of Scottish beaches is also situated on the rugged, wild and mountainous coast of Lochaber, but no boat is needed to reach this one! Instead, it is situated at the end of the spectacular train journey from Fort William, which takes in the gracefully curving Glenfinnan viaduct and threads its way through a landscape that fuses, in perfect harmony, the quintessentially Caledonian romance of Walter Scott with the mystery and drama of Tolkien. Above the train tower the ice-fingered summits of precipitous peaks, looming from mist, as the railway tracks twist and turn on

their switchback course over peat bogs clothed in the russet cloak of autumn and past great forests of proud, towering spruces. The line glides past the mirror-smooth waters of Loch Eilt, a vast body of water hemmed in by steep, rocky crags, and dotted with tiny islands which are jewelled with emerald pines. Finally, by the turquoise waters of a bay carved from rock, the line reaches the Sea of the Hebrides, the volcanic flat top of the Isle of Eigg brooding over the fertile crofting lands. From here, it is only a short distance to one truly exquisite stretch of sand. The beach at Morar provides a fitting conclusion to one truly spectacular journey.

To walk these gleaming white sands, which bring an almost surreal touch of the Caribbean to West Lochaber's stark, Scandinavian landscape, is to walk in the footsteps of film stars. Not that you would know that, for the sands today, on a spectacularly wild Friday afternoon in January at least, appear perfectly pristine, devoid of footprints, devoid of any signs of human disturbance. Back in the 1980s, this idyllic coastline was the setting for that timeless Scottish classic Local Hero, which saw Peter Capaldi, Fulton Mackay and Burt Lancaster among others revelling in the heavenly beauty of this corner of paradise, on the far western coast of Lochaber. After its moment of international fame, the beach returned to its previous serenity, a monument to the everlasting power of nature on these wild shores. 

Here at Morar, the sublime artistic power of nature has interwoven a rich tapestry of spectacular landscapes, with influence from all corners of the globe. The scene could be described as a form of natural surrealism- at first glance, such a fusion of scenic wonders appears unreal, but it was created entirely naturally, long before habitation came to this corner of Scotland. As the River Morar cascades into a shallow inlet of the sea in a foaming, Scandinavian waterfall, crossed by an elegant bridge and watched over by the dark, snow-dusted crags of Lochaber's remote interior, and hemmed in by the typically Caledonian pines, the beach which stretches out along the shores of the inlet gleams with brilliant white hues, as if it were surrounding a tropical island, interspersed with the jagged, jet black volcanic rocks more typical of Sicily than of Scotland.

The still, clear water never loses its Mediterranean turquoise tints, even when pelted with the sleet, hail, snow and icy rain of a West Lochaber winter. Long before Salvador Dali penned such combinations, nature herself had fused Mediterranean seascapes with the granite uplands of the far north, in a scene unparalleled anywhere else on earth, in a uniquely Scottish wonder.

 

The impression is of a lost desert island, transplanted into icy northern seas, then fused with the rugged beauty of the Highlands, where firs and pines took the place of palms. The beach is certainly deserted, an antidote to the crowds of Spain or Greece, with the Highland winter doing its best to ensure that the beach remains forever unsullied by a clutter of parasols, deckchairs and towels. In our Epicurean quest

for tranquility, we have much to thank the Scottish climate for. There is much treasure to be found too, for the exquisite shells of razor clams and mussels jewel the sands.

You cannot walk along this beach, without envying the occupant of the idyllic Highland cottage, hard by the gleaming sands, who looks out on this magical scene every day.

Six of the Best: Scotland's Best Beaches

With its hundreds of miles of deeply indented coastline and more than seven hundred islands, Scotland is blessed with some of the most magnificently situated beaches in Europe. The vast expanses of white sand that jewel Scotland's coast are renowned for their isolation and tranquility: often the cool clear waters lapping the soft sandy shore and the occasional cry of a seabird are the only sounds to be heard. It is usual to walk for miles and see only two, maybe three, other souls: they always have a story to tell, though, so save time for a long chat! Also save time to collect the many treasures that are to be found here: every day, exquisite and exotic shells wash up on these remote shores. A Scottish beach is a haven of pure peace at any time of year. It is a truism that the weather can never be guaranteed, but the ever-changing skies and weather conditions provide this coastline with a drama that is unmatched anywhere else. A trip to the wild coasts of northern Scotland and the Hebrides provides a chance to experience at close quarters the unmatched power of nature; a power wielded in wind, cloud and waves. It is a testament to the stark, wild beauty of these coasts, that even on a raw November day, with driving rain and howling gales, the seascapes never fail to inspire. The next few posts will show you some of the beaches I have fallen in love with during my travels.

1) Camas na Ceardaich, Inverie, Lochaber

The beach at Camas na Ceardaich, often simply titled The Long Beach, lines the rugged shores of a deep bay in Loch Nevis, providing a moon-like crescent of glittering white sand. The sea loch's name translates as the Loch of Heaven, which is highly fitting for the sublime tranquility of the scene. The fine, soft shell sand is jewelled with many dazzling shells, including rare razor clams, a rare treasure trove indeed. The setting reminds me of a desert island, Scottish style, with the same gleaming sand, the same deep blue sea, but with pines instead of palms. The beach is part of the mainland, lining an indentation of the southern Knoydart coast, but accessible only by boat from Mallaig or by a marathon hike across the hills from either Glendessary or Kinloch Hourn. Whichever way you choose to come (I will admit to taking the easy route and boarding a ferry at Mallaig!), this brilliant white stretch of sand provides a spectacular end to a spectacular journey. Though the sea views will justifiably capture your heart, do not forget to look inland: the larch glades, which glow gold in autumn, and the brooding bulk of Meall Buidhe, and its neighbour Luinne Bheinn, provide a formidable Highland backdrop; the perfect harmony of mare e monti, sea and mountains, as the Italians so aptly put it. Then when the clouds recede, a sight of almost surreal beauty will be set before your eyes: in the far distance, the spear-like summit of Sgurr na Ciche, a truly magnificent mountain, will thrust itself boldly into the moody autumnal skies. There is no natural drama greater than this. 

These images illustrate the stunning mountain backdrop to Camas na Ceardaich. The skyline is dominated by Luinne Bheinn (far left) and Meall Buidhe (centre), both in their russet autumn coats, while Sgurr na Ciche appears as a spear head, or ghostly arrow, above the pine glades.

The West Coast's Best Kept Secret

For the many travellers who take the breathtaking road from Inverness to Skye, the minor road which branches away from this wild Highland highway in the small but magnificently situated settlement of Shiel Bridge seems not to warrant a second glance. Indeed, the signs for Glenelg and Arnisdale offer little clue to the incomparable beauty that surrounds these out-of-the-way villages. To twist and turn for twenty miles, along the old single track road which ever so tenuously links the main road to Skye with these secluded west coast hideaways, is one of the greatest pleasures any traveller can experience. The feeling of seclusion and the sense of discovery is heightened by the ever-changing mountain and coastal vistas, and ever-changing weather, which will make this Scottish byway a journey to remember forever.

Where it all begins. The unspoilt village of Shiel Bridge on the Road to Skye, junction for Arnisdale, with the impressive snow-mantled shoulders of the Five Sisters of Kintail beyond.

It is by this quaint west coast cottage in Shiel Bridge, nestled at the foot of the imposing, snow-mantled Five Sisters of Kintail, that the unforgettable journey begins. If you think Shiel Bridge, with its quiet, winding A-road and wild goats roaming freely, is remote, then you will be taken aback by the wild seclusion that is to come...

The forests of Narnia: winter splendour in the Mam Ratagan Pass.

In true Scottish style, it is not long before the single track byway starts to climb rapidly, on a course of tight hairpins through a frosty glade lined with rich emerald spruces. The stubborn, lingering snow at the sides of the road only heightens the excitement of the passenger, and, perhaps, the driver's trepidation. Sensational views open out over the wide Loch Duich to the snowy Kintail peaks, and after a few more hairpins, another surprise is in store... The gateway to Narnia has now been passed, and suddenly, the entire landscape appears locked in the ice-queen's permanent grip. The spruces and pines quiver under the weight of the snow; the high mountains beyond are encased in ice. But for the feint tracks in the road, this is the ice-queen's own pristine kingdom. 

Icy Beinn Sgriethall and Beinn a'Chapuill from the Pass of Mam Ratagan.

This ice kingdom is known as the Pass of Mam Ratagan, which formed a formidable obstacle in the days when cattle were driven from Skye to Inverness, before any ferry or bridge existed at Kyle of Lochalsh. It is a wonder how the cattle ever survived a double-whammy of an icy swim from Skye to the mainland and a steep snowy climb over this pass. Hardy beasts indeed. Even the sight of the peaks and the forests sends an icy chill.

Descending from the pass, the snow gently recedes as the crofting lands of Scallasaig are reached. A couple more twists and turns, and the quiet village of Glenelg is upon you, a peaceful tree-lined village which looks out onto the majestic Isle of Skye across the cool blue waters. 

Glenelg village stretched out along the tranquil bay.

The snowy mountains of Skye, partially hidden in mist, as seen from Glenelg.

The snow is confined to the high peaks now, as the road turns to hug the coast. A light frost still dusts the occasional pine, larch or fir, as the road climbs high above the Sound of Sleat, offering sensational views of the length of the Isle of Skye, with even Torridon and Applecross visible to the north, and Rum, Eigg and Morar to the south, on a clear day. The shimmering seas and mountainous islands make this an unforgettable vista.

The dramatic outlines of Rum and Eigg on the horizon. On the right is the southern tip of Skye, and on the left is the little visited coast of Knoydart around Inverguseran.

These tantalising views of distant islands are briefly savoured, before the road changes its course once more. The wide seascapes are replaced by narrow, rugged mountainscapes, dominated by spear-like, snow-capped summits. A fjord-like loch cuts into this mountain range: the loch is Loch Hourn, and the peaks are those of Knoydart, a name synonymous with wild seclusion. Only two tiny settlementsremain, before the road runs out, and the snow-clad wilderness can re-assert its domination. 

In the deep bay beyond nestles Arnisdale, the most idyllic crofting township, comprising a string of West Coast cottages stretched along the shore. After a thrilling descent, it is time to take a while to

Arnisdale stretched out along the bay, hemmed in by precipitous mountains.

enjoy the slow pace of life and the spectacular views of the precipitous Knoydart peaks. Ladhar Bheinn and Luinne Bheinn look truly dramatic here, showing off a rugged and impregnable side, with their inaccessible and rarely-viewed north-facing corries rising sheer above the loch. 

Luinne Bheinn (left) and Ladhar Bheinn (centre) overlooking Loch Hourn.

The village at the end of the universe (the end of the road, at least): Corran.

The tenuous track, that has twisted and turned from Shiel Bridge, eventually peters out by the old cottages at Corran. The view back to the snow-crowned pyramid of Beinn Sgriethall, and the croft cottage at its foot, is very special too. 

The dilapidated wooden sheds by the shore, reminiscent of Beachcomber Ben's hideaway in Local Hero, provide reminders of busier times, when the villages of Corran and Arnisdale were both bustling herring fisheries. It is very hard to imagine now, but it is true. That is all gone now, and many of the fishermen have gone with it. The sheds still see use, housing the farming implements of those who still delight in the old Highland way of life. One of the village's last few inhabitants greets me here with his dog; he is a middle-aged man, a crofter and fisherman, a lifelong resident of Corran. He is one of the many speakers of Kintail Gaelic in the area; the lyrical tones of his mother tongue, a language embedded in these magnificent mountains, are reflected in his English too, creating a very beautiful but broad Scots voice, very different from the more familiar Lowland tones. Then as the path takes steep detours through birch and rowan copses, it is one of the West Highlands' least photographed peaks that catches the eye. What a peak it is, too. The great whaleback ridge of Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe is a daunting prospect, especially when liberally coated in deep, fresh February snow, the white of the mountain contrasting in perfect harmony with the deep blue hues of the loch. On this precarious hilltop, overlooking this wondrous peak and the deep loch below it, is perhaps the most perfect and peaceful spot for a picnic. It has to involve Lorne sausage and tattie scone rolls, obviously, to suit the location. My new Gaelic-speaking friend would surely approve.

 

The great whaleback ridge of Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe dominating the fjord-like Loch Hourn, as seen from the hills above Corran.

If ever you want a hideaway, where you can gaze at the Isle of Skye in perfect peace, and enjoy spectacular mountain vistas seen by few others, while at the same time delighting in the sound of the cool waters of a remote sea loch gently breaking on the sandy shore, Corran and Arnisdale are the perfect location. Take yourself along that single track road, brave the hairpins and the icy pass... You will never ever forget it! I can safely say that Saturday 21st February, 2015, will remain fixed in my memory thanks to these idyllic scenes.

The beach and the bay at Arnisdale, Skye in the distance.

Welcome to Ed's Undiscovered Scotland

Welcome to the world of Ed's Undiscovered Scotland! I hope you enjoy travelling and photographing landscapes as much as I do, if so, you will love seeing some of the photos and hearing some of the stories on here. This blog documents, with plenty of photos, all my travels around the less well known corners of the Highlands and Islands, plus some familiar favourite locations! I hope it shows you just what a magical and mysterious place the north of Scotland is, and how every type of weather can be dramatic and add its own colours, its own dimensions, from cloudless summer skies to winter white-out, from pale spring sunshine to driving rain and thick mist in autumn, and just about everything in between! I hope you will see why it has become one of my favourite places. It also showcases one of the Highlands' other wonderful attractions, namely the exceptional food and accommodation that can be found in even the remotest settlements. I hope, too, that it will encourage you to see all these places for yourself one day.

The 'Undiscovered Scotland' theme was chosen because I will focus my posts and photos on the less well known beauty spots of the Highlands and Hebrides. There are a number of places in the Highlands- Loch Lomond, the Trossachs, Ben Nevis, Glencoe, the Skye Cuillin, Loch Ness- that have been written about countless times before and appear, for very good reasons I will add, on every tourist's itinerary. I want to show you just how much stunning scenery there is to explore away from the traditional tourist trail; there really is so much choice in the Highlands and Islands, and far more choice than the tourist guides would suggest. These unspoilt, undiscovered beauty spots give you an unparalleled impression of wilderness and tranquility, something that makes the Highlands and Islands such a fantastic escape from busy urban lives. I would even go further to suggest that the most jaw-dropping vistas in the Highlands generally lie some distance from the tourist routes!

Over the next few months, I am planning some trips to explore the less well-known corners of Lochaber, Skye, Lochalsh and Wester Ross, all of which I will write about on here. Hope you enjoy the pictures and hearing of my experiences.