Friday 5 August 2016

The Hebrides' Best-Kept Secret: the Skye Mountain Lodge

The stunning Skye Mountain Lodge in its incomparably beautiful setting.

Hidden away from the madding crowd by two imposing mountain ranges, the Skye Mountain Lodge sits in splendid isolation on a promontory overlooking the tranquil waters of Loch Slapin, overshadowed by towering Cuillin peaks. This luxury wilderness retreat is the brainchild of the liveliest and loveliest Hebridean couple you could ever dream of meeting, Angus Neil and Mairi MacDonald, who left their native South Uist to find their slice of paradise on Skye. The traditionally-styled lodge was built just over a decade ago, and has been specially designed to allow guests to marvel at the greatest view on Skye from the comfort of their luxury bedroom, without even raising themselves from their cosy cocoon of blankets.

A Room with a View- the Cuillin suite at the Skye Mountain Lodge, overlooking Loch Slapin.

There is no spectacle more dramatic than the mist rising and falling from the high mountain peaks, revealing snow-dusted tops, as a gale rages through the glen, and larch trees sway like ships tossed on stormy seas, the waters of the loch bubbling and foaming, the boulders on the rich red moor polished smooth by the West Highland rain. It is this very image of untamed wilderness that can be enjoyed from the warmth and comfort of the lodge's opulent rooms.

The jaw-dropping summits of Bla Bheinn in their rich autumn glow.




The awesome majesty of the Cuillin hills has to be seen to be believed. Once the cloud has lifted from the mountains, and the storm has passed for the moment, the fortunate guest can do no better than walk the rocky lochside paths in the footsteps of the Highlanders of old, to the remains of long forgotten villages where Angus and Mairi's brave ancestors once farmed the land in an idyllic, but at the same time wild and windswept, setting. Above these lost settlements, an everlasting reminder of a brutal chapter in the island's turbulent history, the three dramatic summits of massive Bla Bheinn tower above the loch like the turrets of a fortress, their jagged pinnacles towering skyward like daggers of rock. In the distance, the loch flows softly into the sea, and the peaks of distant islands stand out bold against the setting sun. On this spectacular coastline, perfect harmony is achieved between sea and mountain, combining the two essential elements of Skye's beauty in one sublime natural masterpiece.

The dramatic coastline around Suisnish, with Bla Bheinn towering above.

Once the darkness descends over those dramatic peaks, Highland hospitality awaits at the mountain lodge. In the winter months, Mairi cooks the Scottish feast to end all feasts- a delightful two course meal of a hot and cold smoked salmon starter, followed by a hearty, warming portion of braised venison with neeps and tatties- all eaten in front of a blazing fire, listening to the sweet tones of Gaelic singers. For the most authentic Skye experience, Mairi will be sure to teach her guests a few Gaelic phrases over dinner, introducing them to the poetic language whose evocative words bring Hebridean landscapes to life, still very much a living language in this part of the island.














Soon the brilliant white light of the moon and the glittering stars are reflected in the still waters of Loch Slapin, and it is time to wish warm, kindly Mairi oidhche mhath, as they say in Gaelic. Retiring to that snug, cosy room and that huge, luxurious bed, you will await tomorrow's wilderness adventure with great excitement, after Mairi's exceptional Scottish breakfast, of course!

Oidhche mhath!



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